The Three Capes Walk in Tasmania: An epic challenge
The Three Capes Walk in Tasmania: An epic challenge
The whole story and all the photos from our Prime Time Challenge - a 54km walk along the Three Capes of Tasmania
“You have nothing to do over the next four days but walk and eat. So put your phones on airplane mode and really enjoy the opportunity to disconnect.”
These were the words of our guide Dandy, as we packed our handful of clothes, water and rain jackets into backpacks to head off on one of Australia’s and possibly the world’s most iconic walks, The Three Capes Signature Walk, hosted by the Tasmanian Walking Company. Our four-day hike was a luxury experience, staying in stunning remote lodges, eating chef-prepared three course meals and sipping local Tasmanian wines. But it was more than that. It was rustic, outdoorsy, and challenging.
I’ve never been on a multi-day hiking trip before so the whole concept of this trip was new. I’m no fitness fanatic. Sure, I go to the gym 3-4 times a week and walk the dog on other days. But I really only started training for this hike 6 weeks ago, walking up Brisbane’s Mt Cootha and Mt Gravatt one or twice weekly to prepare my legs and lungs. I’m certainly glad I did, as the hike was every bit the physical challenge I’d hoped. And yet it was also achievable for an ordinary, not super-fit person like me.
I’m calling this trip the first of my “Prime Time Challenges” – things I want to challenge myself to do in midlife – hard things, wild and interesting experiences that keep me learning and push me out of my comfort zone in midlife.
So, onto the trip.
We started on Wednesday in a room in Hobart. 14 strangers, two guides and a pile of backpacks. Into our backpack, which we had to carry for three of the four days, went our carefully planned clothes, toiletries, sheets and water bladder, raincoats and lunchboxes. If you wanted to wear more, you had to carry more. Mine weighed about 12-13kg when we departed. My husband’s less–he teased me. The weather was cold, grey and gusty — but we were optimists – this was going to be special. It was the first walk for the 2024-25 season. Spring was peeking through, or so our guides promised.
Then it was off to Stewarts Bay near Port Arthur where we boarded a small boat, and cruised around looking at the sights on our way to Denmans Cove, a small deserted white beach where the hike begins. We had to strip off our shoes and pants and jump into the water carrying our packs to kick things off. The water was freezing so there was lots of squeals and giggling–a terrrific way to start our easy contact with the elements which for me was one of the ongoing highlights of the trip.
Day one was a polite opener to the days ahead. We hiked 7.5km – about 3km of which was firmly uphill. The trees and the undergrowth change in Tassie as you climb. So every kilometre brings something new to look at, distracting you from the stairs you’re climbing and the screaming of your legs and lungs. New mosses and ferns, wild flowers, different shaped trees, each interesting in their own ways.
We’ve arrived in the beautiful Crescent Bay lodge before sunset to a hot cuppa, fresh homemade cake and a magnificent views across to Cape Raoul! We found our rooms for the first time, appreciating their simple, rustic beauty, comfy beds and warm doonas.
Then, we gathered for wine and dinner. Both lodges on the hike are designed of wall-to-wall glass, wrapped by captivating ocean views, soft Tasmanian timber floors, warmed with roaring fireplaces and including a big sitting area, a large dining table, and an open kitchen where the guides and chef worked to prepare our meals.
We exchanged stories. On our tour were two groups of four women in their fifties travelling together, leaving their hubbys and kids at home; one couple in their forties; one recently retired couple and us… all Prime Timers it seemed, chasing a physical challenge and an escape. All but 4 were first-timer multi-day walkers.
Day two arrived we packed up our things, revelled in a hot breakfast then we were off to climb Arthurs Peak for a magnificent view across to Caspe Raoul and across to Bruny Island. Our guides came into their own today, boiling tea on the track, telling us stories of the conflicts between indigenous Australians and early settlers, explaining the history of the lands we walked on and helping us really appreciate the landscape and changes in nature.
We ate our healthy packed lunches overlooking Haines Bight with views towards Black Head. Then we walked through Tornado Flat to Munro before climbing the big entry-hill to the magnificent Cape Pillar Lodge… where hot tea and warm cake were waiting for us again.
The Cape Pillar Lodge has a spa treatment room and masseuse who was booked-solid by the 14 people on the trip over the two days we stayed there. Her skill–working knots out of every corner of your body, and making 30 minutes feel like an hour–bliss.
Then a joyous three course dinner with our new friends, a Tasmanian wine or two, a briefing about what we’d done that day, and what lay ahead tomorrow, and early to bed.
Day three of this hike is the day the postcard-like photos come from. We left the lodge with a belly full of gourmet porridge carrying only day-packs, a welcome relief, knowing we were returning to the same lodge that night.
Whilst the winds were gusting at up to 90 km/hr, and the rain was threatening, we felt every bit of the joy of the Tasmanian outdoors, putting on raincoats, taking off raincoats, then putting them on again. In the morning we hiked through Corruption Gully where the plants which would normally be tall trees are shrubbed or ‘bonsai’d’ by the winds. Then, on through Hurricane Heath, along a 2km climbing boardwalk up to Resolution Point. We looked out over Tasman Island at the lighthouse and its three homesteads–absolutely spectacular scenery. Then we climbed the very steep and very narrow, The Blade, a hair raising five minutes at the very top of this rocky outcrop, with the winds threatening to push us off the rocks as we took pictures of our bravery. Finally, we walked around to Cape Pillar for another healthy packed lunch! Lots of stairs, hills and stunning views. After lunch and some storytelling we walked the 6 or so kilometres back to the lodge at our own pace where a hot cuppa and warm cake was waiting!
In keeping with the Tasmanian natural vibe, dinner on day three was Wallaby Tagine, a gamey-flavoured meat worth trying. Then board games, storytelling with our guides and another briefing of the day ahead.
On day four we set off early, with our large packs, to the top of Mt Fortescue, 480m above sea level–a challenging and beautiful climb that took about 45 minutes. That was the hardest stretch of the trip given the weight of our large packs! Our guides had mentally prepared us, telling us to predict how far we had left to climb based on three chairs - one chair at the bottom - one chair a third of the way – and a third chair two thirds of the way and our guide with a hot brew waiting at the top. It wasn’t until we’d made it to the top they realised the first chair had been removed during winter - so all of us had reached the top, exhausted, thinking we had only made it about two thirds of the way!
The Gondwana Forest as we got closer to top was a sight to behold with amazing ancient tree ferns and stunning mosses and ferns, dwarfed by towering eucalypts, some of the tallest in Tasmania – stuff out of fairytales really. We had lunch and caught our breath looking back over Munro Bight and Cape Pillar - and The Blade we climbed yesterday.
Our group then split into two, with the uber-fit tackling a 3km round trip to Cape Hauy– down 600 stairs, up 200 stairs, then, in return up 600 stairs and down 200 stairs. The rest of us felt confident that reaching our intended 19.6km today would be enough of a challenge and started the gradual, tough and seemingly never ending descent back down to sea level to the squeaky white sands of Fortescue Bay.
With aching feet and a few blisters we stripped our shoes and went into the ice cold 12.5 degree water. Some even went for a swim (not me!).
Then, the bus ride back to base for a celebratory champagne with our fellow travellers and our two guides. We walked about 54kms in four days and it was magical! The highlight – the challenge of the walk, eating healthy and delicious food I didn’t have to prepare, the stories and lessons from our guides, taking time to really enjoy my surroundings, and the rugged, chilly, spectacular beauty of the Tasmanian outdoors.
I’m a convert - more hiking trips ahead for me, and an ongoing committment to walking more in nature, regularly. Tasmanian Walking Company (TWC) – our hosts – run 8 different walks in Australia, five of which are in Tasmania. And they also offer a range of international walks too. They’re the only company that offers private hut accommodation on the Three Capes Walk. TWC’s collection of walks also includes The Overland Track, Bay of Fires Lodge Walk, Bruny Island Long Weekend and Wineglass Bay Sail Walk. And if you’re keen to try the Three Capes for yourself, I’m told that there’s still a couple of spots available later in the year.